Chanel Eau de Cologne. The name alone conjures images of effortless Parisian chic, a whisper of citrus, and a legacy of unparalleled elegance. Yet, this seemingly simple fragrance has sparked considerable debate, particularly within the perfume community, largely fueled by the influential pronouncements of Luca Turin. Understanding Turin's assessment of this fragrance requires navigating a complex landscape of personal preference, critical analysis, and the broader context of Chanel's perfume offerings. This article will explore Turin's views on Chanel Eau de Cologne, placing them within the framework of his broader opinions on Chanel’s creations, specifically focusing on the *Les Eaux* collection, *Les Exclusifs*, and his overall assessment of the house's approach to fragrance.
Turin, a renowned perfume critic and author of the highly influential *Perfumes: The Guide* (with Tania Sanchez) and *Perfumes: The A-Z Guide*, is known for his uncompromising and often controversial opinions. His assessments aren’t merely descriptive; they delve into the perceived chemical structure and the resulting olfactory experience, often leading to passionate agreement and equally fervent disagreement among perfume enthusiasts. His five-star rating system, often bestowed sparingly, carries significant weight in the perfume world, making his comments on any fragrance, particularly a Chanel offering, a subject of intense scrutiny.
The statement, "I too feel that Chanel has done fresh much more memorably – with the Eau de Cologne (sadly more expensive)," highlights a central theme in Turin’s apparent appreciation for this particular Chanel creation. While he hasn't explicitly detailed his full reasoning in a single, readily available source, dissecting his broader writings on Chanel and his general critical framework allows us to deduce his likely perspective.
Luca Turin's Five Star Perfumes and the Chanel Eau de Cologne:
While the Chanel Eau de Cologne doesn't appear to have received a full five-star rating from Turin (a distinction he reserves for fragrances he considers truly exceptional), its placement within his broader commentary suggests a high level of respect. The fact that he explicitly contrasts it favorably with other Chanel fresh fragrances indicates a belief that it surpasses its contemporaries in terms of memorability and overall impact. This isn’t a simple matter of personal preference; Turin’s assessments often touch upon the perceived quality of the ingredients, the construction of the scent, and its overall longevity and projection. The "sadly more expensive" comment implies that despite the cost, he considers the fragrance's quality justifies the price point, unlike some other offerings that may not deliver on their promise.
Chanel Les Eaux and Turin's Critique:
The Chanel Les Eaux collection, a line of lighter, fresher fragrances, provides a crucial context for understanding Turin’s view of the Eau de Cologne. The Les Eaux are designed to be approachable and easy to wear, a departure from the more opulent and complex scents within the Les Exclusifs line. While Turin hasn't overtly criticized the entire Les Eaux range, his comments about the Eau de Cologne suggest that he views it as a standout performer within this collection – a fragrance that manages to achieve a level of sophistication and memorability not always found in simpler, citrus-focused perfumes. His implicit criticism might be directed towards the overall lightness and lack of complexity found in other fragrances within this particular line.
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